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the auction provides them with a sense of the day’s supply of fish to meet that demand. The auction
process sorts out competing demands and directs the available supply toward the highest-priced
markets.
The “Sashimi” Market
Much of the large tuna marketed in Hawaii is destined for use as raw fish, mostly as sashimi (bite-
sized pieces of raw fish often served with soy sauce and wasabi, Japanese horseradish), but also on
top of finger-shaped servings of rice (sushi). Sashimi is a traditional Japanese dish in which presen-
tation is an art form. The various colors of different fish or different cuts of the same fish are ar-
ranged in combinations that are pleasing to the eye, as well as to the palate. Sashimi is rapidly
gaining popularity outside its traditional ethnic consumer base.
On a per capita basis, Hawaii’s consumption of raw tuna is second in the world only to Japan’s, and
the lure of high prices provides the incentive for Hawaii’s fishermen to seek large tunas suitable for
the sashimi market. High prices, however, are paid only for top-quality, well-handled tuna. Poor
quality or poorly handled fish are unacceptable for sashimi. Prices paid for large tunas vary greatly,
depending on many factors, such as the amount and type of tunas arriving in the market; the de-
mand in Hawaii and in export markets; the season of the year, moon phase and other conditions
affecting catchability; the fishing methods; and the overall quality of the product.
Several species of fish caught off the Hawaiian Islands are suitable for use as sashimi. The bigeye
tuna (Thunnus obesus), which predominates in longline catches during the winter, is highly valued
for sashimi. Large tuna (ahi over 100 pounds) are preferred because they yield a greater percentage
of sashimi from the total weight of the fish, but fish as small as 30 pounds may be acceptable,
especially if not much else is available. Other tunas and marlins listed in the Guide may also yield
good sashimi if the fat content and the color of the flesh are acceptable. Onaga (ruby snapper), opah
(moonfish) and other species are used for sashimi to a lesser extent than tuna or marlin.
The importance of sashimi to consumers has produced a market that is both discriminating and
complex. Only the top grades of fish enter this market. Fish are individually examined before their
sale and, if sold at auction, are bid on individually.
The qualities which render a fish suitable for sashimi include texture, firmness, taste, color, and
moisture content of the flesh, but by far the most important is fat content, which should be high. Fat
content is a natural phenomenon which varies with species as well as with the movements of the
fish, its feeding behavior prior to capture and the characteristics (mainly water temperature) of its
natural habitat.
Sashimi consumers differentiate quality from among various sizes and species of fish, as well as
among the various cuts of an individual fish. The major differentiation is between the fattier, outer
layer of the flesh (closest to the skin) called toro and the inner part of the flesh called akami. In most
fish markets in Hawaii, tuna are sold by loin section, and a tuna cross-cut will yield both toro and
akami.